Відео

Thanks! I'm still at it. More to come soon.

Thanks! There's sort of a walkaround in one of our other videos comparing the 5.3 with the 6.2 in the car. We've always wanted to do "our cars" videos, and maybe it's time!

Mine has been in my car for almost 8 years without missing a trick. Kyle, one of the owners had a 6014 in an LS powered '70 Cougar with which he completed Drag Week, and the Hot Rod Power Tour, drove on nice days and did road racing and autocross events. We've not had reported failures on a single one of the boxes we've installed. I'd say they're pretty reliable.

Thank you! Glad it helped!

The fuel lines on your mustang are situated differently than the fox. The regulator would work fine, but I don't know if the lines would be correct.

@@forged_billions2 my understanding is that cranking timing is fixed at 15*. I usually have my 500-1000 there as well. I would look for a vacuum leak, make sure coil packs are plugged in correct sides, and be certain idle mixture screws are opened properly

@@Scramspeed ok thanks

@@Scramspeed I got it fixed. I grounded box straight to the battery and adjusted idle air screws

Now it runs like a beast , thanks again

@@forged_billions2 glad to hear it!!

Hope it helps you!

If it runs worse after replacing the sensor, I would say its likely your new sensor is bad. We try to use only Delco sensors. These boxes do spit cam sensor problems when its really something else, so its worth checking over the rest of the systems too. I'd double check your wiring. (with a voltmeter, not a test light). These are very picky about engine grounds. Doubly so if its an aluminum block. Additionally, The ground from the MSD box should go straight to the battery post. They are very picky about actually having 12V, it isn't an analog old school MSD box. Battery must be good. It would also be worth checking over the carb, look for vacuum leaks, etc.

Run genuine sensors

I've read somewhere to swap the wires on the cam sensor harness. The middle, stays the same & swap the 2 end wires on the wire harness. I did it & I still have starting issues from time to time. Before it wouldn't start at all once the engine was up to temperature.

This is much more resistant to heat than the metal line, yes.

Go here: www.holley.com/support/ignition/ It is the 5th item down or so, called MSD View Software. documents.holley.com/msdview-4.5.8.exe

Thank you

Go here: www.holley.com/support/ignition/ It is the 5th item down or so, called MSD View Software. documents.holley.com/msdview-4.5.8.exe

Do they have a version for apple ?

@@forged_billions2 No they don't. If you must use it with Apple you would have to run a VM.

@@Scramspeed ok 👍🏾

It used separate coolers. I believe they were Setrab.

ITs a unit we sourced from Circle D.

Even thinking about it makes me cringe, but you're right, I'm almost certain there's worse available now.

Sounds like you don't have a connection to the box. Try a different USB port on your computer. The box uses a virtual serial port, and that is usually directly tied to a specific USB port on the computer. Sometimes it changes with Microsoft update....

Can you give us a call at the shop? 217.590.0128 Thanks!

We're doing out best. The problem is, we did it right the first time, so he hasn't needed anything or had need or want of any upgrades! We're trying, thanks for hanging in there.

4L80e

That was the baseline pull with 20* of total ignition timing. The car picked up almost another 20 rwhp from there with a couple of degrees of ignition timing, and by the time it had all the timing in it, it was making more horsepower than the car was rated at from the factory. See my response to your other post which discusses the difference between factory rated flywheel horsepower and rear wheel horsepower.

The numbers you list are factory flywheel numbers. A chassis dyno measures rear wheel horsepower. Rear wheel horsepower is what your car puts down to the road, after drivetrain losses, not what goes in the brochure. You may have noticed our SVO is in less than pristine condition. Our car was rated at 175 flywheel horsepower. However, baseline 2 was 156 wheel horsepower which is (approximately) 195 flywheel horsepower. With the Holley it made 182, which is approximately 227 flywheel horsepower.

Glad its helping! That is a solid carb choice for that engine. We are working on more. If you ever do decide you'd like to upgrade, we'd be happy to help!

@@Scramspeed do you have a preferred plug you like to use on these carb setups?

Went back and looked and yep at 1:33 of video....that's gonna light someone up who ever touches that

Thanks, we will pass this along to the owner.

@@Scramspeed no problem

The Truck Norris cam is for pickup truck guys who want to be able to get away with a stock torque converter (212/220). It's also a really good driver cam that has good sound and some punch. That Trick Flow cam is called the Track Max (238/242). There should be a massive performance difference between those two cams.

There are a lot of possibilities there. First thing I would check would be for a vacuum leak. If there are vacuum caps on the carb did one of them come loose? Make sure everything is tight. Are you running it off of a custom tune? Where are your mixture screws set?

@@Scramspeed I’ll check for vacuum leaks and no I just plugged the 6014 up I did not play with the tunes

@@6.2dough If you're still stuck on Monday, please give me a call at the shop. Easy on the phone, would be lots of typing in a comment section.

The Holley install on this particular vehicle is not particular easy. It does necessitate the use of a crank trigger to get the timing functionality and we had to make a harness out of a cast off LS1 harness. Its definitely something we made happen because we really wanted to do it.

@@Scramspeed Yeah, I kind of figured that. My car has an older SDS EM3 system, which when it was put in the car was the only plug and play system available. It is rather primitive, uses a handheld tuning interface, and does not do any self-tuning (aside from closed loop cruise on a narrowband) nor does it datalog. I can upgrade the PCM to the current version, which is 3 generations down the road, and get 8 channels of datalogging and better closed loop, but nothing like a Holley. I can go to Pimp X and I am familiar with tuning MS systems, but I know from being in the LS turbo world just how much easier Holley is. The car is pretty heavily modified, but just so hard to tune with the SDS since I don't have a dyno like you. If I did, I could certainly use this system as I would not really need to log it as all the needed data would be on the dyno. I am not very good with electrical wiring, so the Holley is probably beyond my wheelhouse. LOL.

Are you running this with a carburetor? You mean propane?

@@Scramspeed I’m running 850 Holley carb

@@amgcarsalonllc Gotcha, you can either build a custom tune with the instructions in this video and the next, or just select something like the LS1 HO tune on the dial on the front.

@@Scramspeed ok thx I’ll mess with it and see what happens

It is really hard to beat for bang-for-the-buck with stock stuff.

It wouldn't make sense for anyone to get that kind of power from a stock port injected 5.3. This is rear wheel horsepower. Not engine dyno flywheel horsepower, and port injected 5.3s were rated at much less than 350 hp. Factory ratings are flywheel horsepower, not rear wheel horsepower. There is about a 20% loss in power through the drivetrain to the wheels. Rear wheel hp numbers are about 20% lower than factory flywheel numbers. Post 2014 5.3s are direct injected and are rated at 350 hp at the flywheel, but that is not a rear wheel horsepower number either. Of course, the engine in this video is a 4.8, not a 5.3. For 350 rear wheel horsepower stock, you'd be looking more at an LS3 6.2. 350 wheel horsepower is about 440 hp at the flywheel.